Everything You Need to Know to Finish Your Basement

Getting a permit is essential to the job. While you could finish your basement without a permit, it could end up costing you even more down the line when you try and sell your home or if something were to happen and you can’t document the work that was completed.

To get a permit, visit the website of your local government. Permit information can often be found in the Building Department.

You never want to install drywall in your basement before checking for water or high humidity. That doesn’t mean that you can’t finish a damp basement, though. You just need to take the proper steps to waterproof your work area first.

There are a lot of ways to tackle a damp basement, from a dehumidifier to a sump pump and full basement waterproofing. The direction you go is determined by the severity of the problem. If the issue is minor, expect to spend around $250-600. If it’s a bigger problem that requires professional waterproofing, expect to spend $1,900-$6,400.

Drywall or plaster? Drop ceiling or exposed? Carpet or laminate? These are all questions you should consider before starting the project. It’s best to consider these ahead of time, as the materials will be where you spend the bulk of your budget.

The key things to consider while making your materials list are:

• Insulation type
• Wall material
• Ceiling style
• Flooring type
• Utility locations
• Paint colors
• Trim styles

While there will be other minor things to consider as the project is completed, these are the big decisions that tend to cost the most. Give them the proper amount of thought.

There are plenty of tools needed to finish a basement. Some are simple and you probably already have, such as a hammer or level. If you don’t own a certain tool, you can try renting it from a home improvement store or local tool bank.

1. Measure the space from your floor to your ceiling, then subtract ¼ of an inch. Cut your insulation with a utility knife to that length.
2. Hold your cut sheet against the wall to ensure it fits.
3. Apply insulation adhesive to the back.
4. Press the insulation against the wall for the amount of time recommended on the adhesive container.
5. Repeat steps 1-4 until your walls are completely covered.
6. Fill the seams between the insulation boards, ceiling, floor and corners with caulk.

Draw a line on the floor four inches from the walls. Make sure that the line intersects any walls at a 90-degree angle.
Measure your wall and cut your 2x4 to that length. Be sure to do this twice for each wall since these will be your top and bottom plates.
Mark the plates every 16 inches for stud placement. The 16-inch mark is where the center of the stud will go. Since it will be hidden when the stud is placed over it, extend the line to the sides of the plates so you can still see it.

1. Lay your bottom plate to align with the line drawn in step one.
2. Secure the bottom plate using your masonry drill and nails. Start at either end and then use your 16-inch marks to add supporting nails. Be sure to use your protective equipment as you’ll be drilling through cement.
3. Install the top plate by following the same instructions for the bottom plate, but use a nail gun instead of a masonry drill. If your ceiling joists run parallel to the top plate, you’ll need to add a blocking board between the nearest joists every 16 inches to attach the top plate to.
4. Check that your plates are level. If not, add shims (a thin piece of wood to help with spacing) as needed.
5. Measure the space between the plates.
6. Cut your studs to the proper lengths.
7. Install the studs by aligning them with the 16-inch marks made earlier. Use your nail gun to insert the nails on each side of the stud at a 45-degree angle.
8. Repeat these steps until all of your walls have been framed.

1. Install any electric, plumbing and air duct work that will run inside the walls.

Safety Tip: This work is strictly regulated, and should not be DIYed. Even if you plan on finishing the rest of your basement yourself, you’ll need to hire a certified professional for this part of the project.

1. Decide if you want to hang your drywall horizontally or vertically. Typically, a horizontal hang will leave less seams, but decide based on what best fits your room.
2. Measure and cut your drywall sections to end on a stud.
3. Mark and remove any sections of drywall where utilities need to be exposed.
4. Secure drywall to the stud using drywall screws.
5. Fill in any seams and cover screw heads with drywall mud.
6. Apply drywall tape to the seams.

1. Be sure to use some sandpaper on the areas where you applied drywall mud to smooth them out.
2. Now apply a layer of primer before giving your walls 1-2 coats of paint.

This type of ceiling has the most options because it requires an installation kit. The basic idea behind a drop-ceiling is installing a second ceiling below the structural ceiling, which allows you to easily access any utilities above them. These typically consist of a series of interlocking frames and tiles. While the installation will vary depending on the kit you select, the general installation cadence is:

1. Purchase an installation kit (required).
2. Install L-channel frames on walls.
3. Install T-channel frames along floor joists, connecting to the L-channel frames.
4. Snap the T-channel cross frames into place between the full T-channels.
5. Place the tiles in the frame.

Drywall is another common ceiling type that is used in basements. In order to install this type of ceiling, the steps are quite similar to installing basement walls.

1. Mark and cut holes in the drywall sheets for utilities.
2. Apply adhesive to the joists where the sheet of drywall will be hung. Start in a corner and work your way out.
3. Press the drywall to the adhesive.
4. Nail or screw the drywall to the joists every seven inches around walls. For interior joists, fasteners can be installed at 12-inch increments.
5. Repeat steps until the ceiling is covered with drywall.
6. Fill seams and nail/screw heads with drywall mud.
7. Apply drywall paint to the seams.
8. Paint once the mud has dried.

This is the simplest ceiling option. Give your basement an industrial look by leaving it open. However, if you aren’t a fan of seeing wood beams and piping when you look up, there are ways to mask it. The simplest option would be to paint the ceiling — usually a dark color works the best. If you opt for this route, be sure to use a sprayer to get an even coating and avoid dripping and running.

Once your subfloor is set, follow the installation instructions on the flooring type you purchased, or consider hiring a professional if you aren’t comfortable.